A dog that has allergies most often shows it through skin problems and itching. Allergies may be to a variety of things such as household products, food ingredients, or grasses and pollens. Causes of itchy skin may include bacterial infections mites or fleas, systemic illnesses, or allergies (termed Atopy). Many of these causes can be ruled out during a visit to a veterinarian. Diagnosing allergies means either elimination trials, or direct allergy testing. Although there are blood tests available to rule out allergies, these tests are not specific and  false positive results are very common. The most sensitive and specific test for allergies is intradermal skin testing (skin prick test). Treatment of skin allergies may include symptomatic therapy with antihistamines, fatty acids, prednisone, or other medications that modulate the immune system. Although effective in many cases, many animals have unwanted side effects from these medications and directly treating the condition with immunotherapy (hyposensitization or allergy shots) maybe the best choice for many animals.

A dog’s heart beats between 60 and 120 times per minute, and with each contraction, oxygen and energy are carried in the blood to the muscles and organs of the body, and waste products and carried away. As wit human’s cats’ and dogs’ hearts consist of four chambers separated by valves to ensure the blood flows in only one direction.

Heart disease can either be congenital meaning the animal is born with an abnormality, or acquired meaning the disease occurs later in life. There are a number of different types of acquired heart diseases, but for most pets, the disease typically falls into one of two categories:

1. Valvular disease is a condition where one or more of the valves of the heart do not close properly. The majority of dogs with heart disease suffer from this.
2. Cardiomyopathy is a condition where the heart cannot pump effectively. There are several types of cardiomyopathy. This is the most common form of heart disease in cats.

In many cases, the cause of heart disease is unknown, but as with humans, risk increases with age. Certain breeds of dogs and cats appear to be predisposed to different types of heat disease.

Hyperthyroidism can contribute to heart disease in cats, as con diets low in taurine. Heartworms, which are transmitted by mosquitos, can cause heart problems in both dogs and cats.

Signs of heart disease can be subtle, and may be mistaken for normal aging. They include:

1. Coughing (less common in cats)
2. Rapid breathing, shortness of breath, difficulty breathing (open-mouth breathing in cats)
3. Lethargy
4. Behavior changes (less interested in walks or playing)
5. Weakness
6. Loss of appetite and weight loss
7. Swollen abdomen

Dogs and cats with mild heat disease may not show and signs of illness. Unfortunately, the condition is usually progressive, and eventually heart failure (the inability of the heart to pump an adequate blood supply throughout he body) may occur.

It is sometimes possible to detect heat disease before your pet shows and symptoms. In addition to listening to your pet’s heat for signs of a heart murmur or abnormal rhythm, there are a number of diagnostic tests your veterinarian may recommend, including, radiographs (also referred to as x-rays), ultrasound (echocardiogram), blood work, electrocardiogram (ECG), and blood pressure tests all of which can help determine whether the hear is diseased and the extent of the disease.

There is no cure for most heart disease, but early detection and treatment can help your beloved pet live loner and more comfortably with the disease. One or more long term medications may be prescribed. Modifications to your pet’s diet and exercise regimen may be required, and follow-up examination by your veterinarian at regular intervals is strongly recommended to monitor the progression of the disease.

Sounds wonderful and maybe it is – if you are a human. If you are a dog, xylitol is potentially lethal.

Two Deadly Effects of Xylitol

Hypoglycemia
In the canine body, the pancreas confuses xylitol with real sugar and releases insulin to store the “sugar.” The problem is that xylitol does not offer the extra Calories of sugar and the rush of insulin only serves to remove the real sugar from the circulation. Blood sugar levels plummet resulting in weakness, disorientation, tremors, and potentially seizures.
It does not take many sticks of gum to poison a dog, especially a small dog (see below for toxic doses). Symptoms typically begin within 30 minutes and can last for more than 12 hours. Vomiting and diarrhea may also occur.

Hepatic Necrosis
The other reaction associated with xylitol in the canine body is actual destruction of liver tissue. How this happens remains unknown but the doses of xylitol required to produce this effect are much higher than the hypoglycemic doses described above. Signs take longer to show up (typically 8-12 hours) and surprisingly not all dogs that experience hepatic necrosis, will have experienced hypoglycemia first. A lucky dog experiences only temporary illness but alternatively, a complete and acute liver failure can result with death following. Internal hemorrhage and inability of blood to clot is commonly involved.

How Much Xylitol Is Dangerous?
The hypoglycemic dose of xylitol for dogs is considered to be approximately 0.1 grams per kilogram of body weight (about 0.045 grams per pound). A typical stick of gum contains 0.3 to 0.4 grams of xylitol, which means that a 10 lb dog could be poisoned by as little as a stick and a half of gum.

The dose to cause hepatic necrosis is 1 gram per kilogram of body weight, about ten times more than the above dose. In the example above, the 10 lb dog would have to find an unopened package of gum and eat it for liver destruction to occur.

Treatment
Ideally, the patient can be seen quickly (within 30 minutes) and can be made to vomit the gum or candy. Beyond this, a sugar IV drip is prudent for a good 24 hours. Liver enzyme and blood clotting tests are monitored for 2 to 3 days. Blood levels of potassium are ideally monitored as well. Elevated blood phosphorus levels often bode poorly.

What about Cats?
So far National Animal Poison Control has no reports of xylitol toxicity in cats. At this time, feline toxicity is unknown.

What about Xylitol Containing Mouthwashes for Pets?
The oral health benefits of xylitol do seem to hold true for dogs if appropriately low doses of xylitol are used. A product called Aquadent® has been marketed for canine oral care, specifically for dogs that do not tolerate other methods of dental home care. This product is mixed in drinking water to provide antibacterial benefits. It comes in a 500cc (half liter) bottle that contains a total of 2.5 grams of xylitol as well as in small packets. If one follows the dosing instructions on the bottle or packet, there should be no problems.
Trouble could occur if there are animals of different sizes drinking from the same water bowl (one should dose for the smallest animal to use the bowl to be sure overdose is not possible). A dog finding the bottle and chewing it up, drinking a substantial quantity of the undiluted product could easily be poisoned depending on the dog’s size.

Please read this FDA warning

Like many diseases CRD has a quiet onset and as much as 66% of the kidney’s function may be gone before your pet starts to show signs. Some of the early indications that your pet may have CRD include: excessive thirst and urination, depression, lethargy, bad breath, and weight loss (with no change in diet or exercise). Your veterinarian may see want to blood work, as well as, an ultrasound to prove that your pet definitely has CRD. CRD is not a death sentence. There is no cure, but with proper treatment, your pet can live a full and happy life.

Catching CRD early means more treatment options and more time with a better quality of life for your pet. Treatments include: diet change, blood pressure medication, and subcutaneous fluids (to help hydrate your pet, as well as, flush out toxin build-up). As with any treatment there are side effects, so always pay close attention to your pet and notify your vet if you notice any abnormal changes.

RIBBONS & TINSEL
These are of special interest to playful cats and kittens who see these materials as toys (or prey) to be chased, pounced upon, chewed or swallowed. While chasing and pouncing pose no health threats, chewing and swallowing do, as these strings or “linear foreign bodies” can catch in the GI tract, leading to bunching of intestine as the body tries in vain to move the string or ribbon through. This is a life-threatening condition requiring surgery for correction.

ELECTRIC LIGHT CORDS
These are also tempting to cats who like to play with string as well as to puppies who are teething and interested in chewing. If a pet bites through an electrical cord, it could result in burns and electrical shock or create a fire hazard.

CHOCOLATE
Unsweetened baking chocolate carries a much higher dose of the toxin theobromine than does milk chocolate, but even normal milk chocolate can be dangerous; a small dog sharing candy can wind up in big trouble. Clinical signs of chocolate poisoning include hyperexcitability, nervousness, vomiting, and diarrhea. If you think your pet has consumed chocolate, try to determine how much, what type, and how long ago and call your veterinarian.

POINSETTIA
Consuming this festive-looking plant can be irritating to the mouth and stomach of the dog or cat that chews on or eats it. Contrary to popular belief, poinsettia is not specifically toxic.

MISTLETOE
The fact that there are several types of mistletoe makes it difficult to predict the clinical signs of poisoning. Some mistletoes produce only stomach upset while others may lead to liver failure or seizures. Consider mistletoe to be a hazardous substance and keep it inaccessible to pets and children.

DIETARY INDISCRETION
We all like to include our pets in Holiday meals along with the rest of the family, but try to keep in mind that sudden rich diet changes are likely to upset a pet’s stomach. Vomiting and diarrhea are not uncommon. If leftovers are of an especially fatty nature, the pancreas may become inflamed and overloaded. This condition is serious and may require hospitalization

On behalf of all of us at Montana Veterinary Specialists, have a safe and happy holiday season!

Scratching

Scratching is natural and satisfying for cats, but it can also be disruptive and destructive to your home. There are steps you can take to redirect a cats behavior and protect your furniture and carpet.
You need to start on this project by getting your cat a good scratching post or cat tree. A cat tree or post must be stable enough for your cat to climb and pull on, covered with material your cat can dig her claws into, and put in a prominent area so that your cat uses it. Make sure that the post you choose isn’t covered in the same texture of carpet as that in your house or your cat may have a hard time making the distinction between why clawing carpet on the post is okay but not on the floor. Sisal is a rough- textured rope material cats love to dig into and makes a nice alternative to carpet alone.
After you’ve got the post or tree on place, encourage your cat to use it by teasing her with a cat toy and praising her for digging in her claws. If your cat enjoys catnip, rub some on the post to encourage her to spend more time there and give her treats for being on the tree as well. Make sure that she knows in no uncertain terms that climbing and clawing are perfectly fine and encouraged on her scratching post or cat tree. Don’t put her paws on the post, however – cat’s don’t like to be forced to do anything!
Make the areas you don’t want your pet to touch less appealing during the retraining process by covering them with foil, plastic sheeting, or plastic carpet runners with the pointy side out. Use double-sided tape generously as well – cats hate the feel of sticky stuff under their paws. You can still use the furniture yourself by applying the foil, plastic, or what-have-you to pieces of cardboard that you can lift off if you want to sit down.
Since clawing is also a territory-marker, move the cat tree into a prominent place, near that clawed corner of the couch in the center of the room, now covered with deterrents. Praise your cat for using the post instead. Move the post slowly – a few inches a day – to a place more to your taste.
Yes, your house is going to look pretty ugly for a while, with cat-deterrents all over the furniture and a cat tree in the middle of the room. You must live with it until your cat’s new pattern of clawing only where acceptable is established. If you’re patient and consistent, that new pattern will eventually take root.
Keeping your cat’s nails trimmed is another way to reduce her destructive capabilities. Nail trims can be performed on most cats at home with a pair of human nail clippers, a little patience, and some treats the cat enjoys. Be careful not to cut into the pink part of the claw – instead remove just the pointy white area of the long curved nail. Your veterinarian can trim the claws for you if it is difficult at home, and may be able to demonstrate to you how to safely perform this procedure yourself.
For some cats, nail tips help with clawing problems. Glued onto the nails every six weeks or so, these Soft Paws tips even come in a variety of colors.
Even with consistent training and appropriate behavior modifications, some cats may continue destructive behavior. For these individuals surgical declawing may be recommended for cats who will remain indoors. Contact your veterinarian to discuss this option.

Inappropriate Urination

Many times people see inappropriate elimination as one problem, when in fact it’s potentially several problems, some of which may be related. The most basic behaviors are those intended to mark territory and those that express dissatisfaction or discomfort with using a litter box. You must first observe exactly what your cat is doing – marking territory or avoiding the box – before you can figure out what to do about it.
Start a journal of your cat’s errant deposits. A simple steno notebook works well. In it, write down the date and time, what you found (urine or feces), where you found it (on a horizontal surface or, in the case of urine, on a vertical one, such as the side of a couch), and the location in the house of the mess (in the bathtub, on a throw rug, next to the litter box). Note taking not only helps you figure out what kind of behavior the problem is and how you should approach it, but also helps you spot even small signs of progress. And perhaps most importantly, having a written record provides you with the information your veterinarian needs to help diagnose any medical problems. Vocalizing while urinating, discolored or foul-smelling urine, or frequent accidents can be signs of a more serious underlying medical problem.
Recognizing inappropriate urinating vs. marking behavior
A cat who’s not relieving himself where he should deposits urine on a horizontal surface. If you see him releasing urine, you’ll notice that he squats. Squatting is a very different behavior from the one used to mark territory, which generally involves backing up to the surface in question and urinating while standing. A marking cat will often hold his tail high and quivering and shift weight from one leg to the other.
Which Cat is the Culprit?
Because many people share their lives with more than one cat, when they’re faced with a wet spot the question immediately arises: “Okay, which one of you did this?” Unfortunately, it’s not so easy to tell.
Some behaviorists suggest that isolating each cat, one after the other, in a safe room. But that approach may not work if a territory dispute is at the heart of the problem. The culprit cat may react positively to the separation and quit his inappropriate behavior, but when you put the cats back together, the problem reappears. And you still don’t know which cat is responsible.
One solution veterinarians sometimes use to help identify a problem cat in a multicat household is to give a fluorescent dye to one cat at a time. The dye will pass in the urine and can be detected through what’s called a Wood’s Lamp (essentially a black light).
By know which cat or cats are urinating inappropriately and when, how frequent, location, and behavior associated with voiding, you can help your veterinarian rule out medical problems and assist you in correcting the underlying reason for the accidents.

Biting & Aggression

You need to do a little detective work and figure out what’s causing your cat to bite or claw you. Aggression takes many forms, and the solution depends on the cause, some of which may be as follows:

Fear or pain
If your cat is striking out because he’s afraid or hurting, your best bet is to leave him alone and work on the underlying problem. A cat in pain or fear has his ears flat back against his head and his body rolled into a defensive posture low against the ground with claws up and ready. This cat is saying, “Don’t come near me!” You need to let your cat calm down – hide if need be – before you can get your veterinarian to examine him. Often under these circumstances that carrier your cat seems to hate will seem like a haven. Place the carrier with the door wide open in the room with your cat. Your cat may choose to go in there and this may save you the “fight” of trying to force your cat to enter the carrier for the trip to the veterinarian.

Overstimulation. You’re petting your cat and suddenly he grabs you with his claws and teeth. Not a full-powered attack, but you’ve still got those sharp tips around your hand. What to do? In the short run, freeze. Don’t fight your cat or you may trigger a real bite. Sometimes smacking your other hand hard against a hard surface – a table top, for example – may startle your cat into breaking off the attack. If you stay still, however, he usually calms down and releases you.
That’s the solution if you’ve gotten to the attack stage. The better option is to be familiar with your cat and his body language and stop petting before he becomes overstimulated. Cat lovers often think such attacks come without warning, but the fact is that they missed the warning signs of a cat who has simply had enough. The tail is the key: If your cat starts twitching his tail in a jerky fashion, the time to call off the petting has arrived. If you watch your cat’s body language you can slowly build up your petting time. Three pats, then four, then five. Push up to, but never over, your cat’s level of tolerance and build slowly on your successes.

Play aggression. Sure, it hurts all the same, but the cat who pounces on your feet and then careens off the wall isn’t trying to hurt you – he’s playing. You need to increase your play sessions with your cat with an appropriate toy, such as a cat fishing pole or toy on a string – not one of your body parts – to help your cat burn off his excess energy before you try for a quiet pet session. Let him know that attacks on you are not permitted by letting him have it with a blast from an air horn or a spray bottle. A little Bitter Apple on your hand can help, too.

Redirected aggression. Your cat sees another cat, an intruder, outside your living room window. He becomes enraged. You walk by, and he nails you. You were just the victim of redirected aggression. This one’s tough to fix. Try to discourage strange cats in your yard: Thump on the window or put the air horn out the door and give them a blast.
Can Your Cat Learn a Trick or Two?

Cat tricks?

Some people point to the dog’s ability to learn obedience commands and tricks as proof that dogs are smarter than cats. Others point to the same as proof that cats are smarter than dogs.
We’re not going to get into that argument. The important thing to remember is that cats and dogs are different in how they relate to us. Dogs have an ingrained need to be part of a family structure – to have a job to do within that family. Dogs are that way because wolves are that way – survival depends on the family, or pack.
The cat came from a different place – from solitary hunters who didn’t need teamwork to survive. You could say that dogs need to be with us, while cats choose to.
Because of this distinction, you absolutely cannot get a cat to do something he doesn’t want to. Something must be in it for him. With training tricks, that something is usually food. (Although some cats will work for a toy, or petting.) Teach the cat an association between a word – such as “sit” – and an action by using treats and praise.
Start teaching the “sit” command with a hungry cat and a quiet room. Get your cat to stand up by touching her in front of her tail and then hold the treat a little over her head, saying her name and the command “sit.” Slowly move the treat between your cat’s ears, but not high enough for her to pick her front paws off the ground and grab the tidbit. Instead, she’ll sit. After she does, praise her and give her the treat. Work in short sessions and be patient.
Some cats can be taught to play fetch with a similar training method. Start by tossing a treat for your feline friend to chase and eat, then toss a toy that they are fond of carrying. Once your cat has picked the toy up in her mouth, offer to trade her a treat for the toy. Gradually increase the distance you throw the toy – if you are patient, she will catch on.

Before Baby Comes Home
• Start training early. It is best to begin your dog’s training well before bringing baby home. Behaviors such as barking, excitement with visitors, and jumping up on people can be quite problematic when your new baby arrives and friends and family will be visiting. Go over commands such as ‘sit,’ ‘down,’ and ‘stay.’ These commands will provide a calm and controlled environment when baby arrives.
• “Go to your place.” The dog or cat should be trained to accept confinement in a safe, secure location where toys, water bowl, food, and a litter box (for the kitties) are readily available. This will be very beneficial when the baby arrives so that your pet can remain relaxed and calm away from the family if needed.
• Prepare Early. Set up the nursery in advance and decide whether your pet will be allowed in the room. If not, the pet should calmly and consistently be denied access and praised/rewarded prior to baby’s arrival. If the pet will be allowed in the nursery, spend some gentle time in the room with your pet so that it may adapt to new odors and furniture. Reward your dog with praise, food, and petting for calm behavior.
• Introducing children’s behaviors. A child will often pull on the ears, hair and tail of a dog, so it would be beneficial for you and your dog if he is used to these types of sensations. Start by gently pulling on the animal’s hair and rewarding good behavior. Gradually increase the intensity until you mimic how a toddler might pull. This will keep the dog from being surprised when your child decides to pull on an ear.

After Baby Comes Home
• Introduce your baby. Have a family member bring home some clothing your baby has worn in the hospital for the pet to smell. When the baby first arrives home, introductions should not begin until everything has calmed down. If there is more than one pet in the household, introduce each pet one at a time. Make sure that your pet remains controlled during the entire introduction- leashes or head harnesses are helpful for dogs. One person should be holding the baby sitting comfortably in a chair while another person is carefully monitoring the pet’s behavior.
• Handle aggression early. The pet should be gently corrected upon any sign of unwanted behavior whether it is aggressive or nonaggressive (i.e. crawling on top of the baby). Aggressive behavior should result in immediate isolation and possibly referral to a board-certified behaviorist. Do not assume the issue will resolve without proper intervention. Unacceptable, nonaggressive behavior should result in redirection of the pet to a desirable behavior.
• Don’t forget your pet’s needs. With the major changes in the household that come with having a newborn, it is easy to forget or ignore your pet. Often a pet may receive playtime, exercise, affection, or food when the baby is asleep. This may teach your pet that the baby is something negative (baby = no attention). Therefore, you should make a point to pay attention to your pet when the baby is active and present. This can be done with verbal engagement, or if two adults are in the household, one can be attending baby’s needs while the other can pay some attention to your pet. Taking your baby and your pet for a walk is a great way to spend time with both!

Bringing your newborn baby home is a very joyous occasion, so make it a pleasant experience for your pet too. For the first few weeks, your pet should be restrained or confined when in the presence of your baby. You can use leashes, crates, or baby gates for a little help. Good sense requires that pets are never left alone with a baby or child; however, with advance planning, training, and attention, most pets adjust well to their expanding family.

Studies have been performed showing that just by sniffing a person’s breath dogs can detect many different types of cancer including: lung, breast, ovarian, and bladder. German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, and Australian Shepherds have been accredited with this feat.

During the studies a dog was first given a “sample” from a patient with cancer to smell. The dog was then put in a room that contained one person with cancer and several people without cancer. The dog sat in front of the person with cancer nine out ten times. These amazing animals were not confused by smokers, benign tumors, or inflammatory diseases. Just one more reason dogs have been dubbed “man’s best friend”.

Having a pet is in many ways like having a toddler in the household.  They are constantly exploring the world around them, they get into things you never would have dreamed they could, and everything goes in their mouth. At Montana Veterinary Specialists and General Care, we see patients on a regular basis who have found something new in their environment and chewed it up, lapped it up, or swallowed it whole.  Many of these items are harmless, but some can be dangerous or downright deadly.  If your pet has been exposed to a potential toxin, your veterinarian will need to know the following information to plan a course of action:

1)     The species, age, and approximate weight of the exposed pet(s).

2)     The time frame in which the exposure occurred.

3)     The amount and type of potential toxin that was ingested.

In some cases you may be able to monitor at home, but other toxins require immediate action and hospitalization.  The following is a list of common substances that may be found in your home, car, or neighborhood that warrant a call to your veterinarian if ingested.

Raisins and Grapes

Ingestion of grapes or raisins has been associated with acute renal failure in dogs.  Anecdotal evidence suggests that cats may also be affected.  The exact cause of renal toxicity is unknown.  Not every dog or cat is susceptible and some dogs can tolerate large quantities of grapes or raisins without any clinical signs. Since there is no test to determine if your pet is susceptible or not, any exposure should be treated as potentially toxic.  Contact your veterinarian immediately.

Sugar-free Gums and Candies containing Xylitol

Xylitol a sugar substitute and can be found in sugar-free candy, gums and other products.  In dogs it can cause hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) severe enough to results in collapse, seizures, or death.  There is no antidote, but decontamination and supportive care to maintain appropriate blood sugar levels can save your pets life.

Anti-inflammatory Medications

The inappropriate use of anti-inflammatory medications such as Tylenol , Ibuprofen, and Rimadyl can cause a variety of illnesses in pets, from gastrointestinal upset to kidney disease.  Cats are especially sensitive to non-steroidal anti-inflammatories.  If you suspect your pet has been exposed to anti-inflammatory medication without a recommendation by a licensed veterinarian, you should contact your veterinarian immediately to prevent life-threatening side effects.

Lilies

Ingestion of leaves, flowers, or pollen from Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum), tiger lilies (Lilium tigrinum), rubrum or Japanese showy lilies (Lilium speciosum and Lilium lancifolium), and various day lilies (Hemerocallis species) can cause severe kidney damage, especially in cats.  If you think your pet has eaten a part of a lily, you should call your veterinarian immediately.

Antifreeze

Ethylene glycol is a common constituent of antifreeze, brake fluid, and window deicers.  Unfortunately, it tastes sweet, and is therefore a common toxicity seen in small animals.   Even a small amount of ethylene glycol can cause behavior changes, seizures, and severe kidney disease.  If you believe your pet has been exposed to an ethylene glycol-containing product, you should contact your veterinarian immediately.

Ant Baits

Ant baits usually contain inert ingredients such as peanut butter, breadcrumbs, sugar and vegetable or animal, which could be attracting to pets.  Exposures to these types of ant baits usually do not require decontamination or treatment, unless the pet ingests the entire trap and it becomes lodged in their stomach or intestine, causing a blockage.  Most often, if signs are seen at all, they are mild in nature and self-limiting and are usually attributed to the inert ingredients instead of the active ingredient.  Unlike insect baits, those designed for mammalian pests such as gophers can be incredibly toxic to dogs and cats and warrant immediate decontamination.  Call your veterinarian if you have any questions about a specific product that your pet has been exposed to.

Inappropriately-used Veterinary Products

Many flea and tick products that are safe for one species are not appropriate for other household pets.  Cats are especially sensitive to some of the products that are perfectly safe for dogs.  Make sure all medications are used only for the species indicated on the prescription label, and use over-the-counter products according to the package instructions unless otherwise directed by a veterinarian.  Additionally, medications can have negative interferences with one another, so do not start administering an additional medication without the direction of your veterinarian.

Likewise, species differences exist between cats, dogs, and other domestic species that make medications that are safe for one very toxic to another.  Do not give a prescription intended for one pet to a pet of a different species without consulting with a veterinarian.  If a pet accidently ingests medication intended for another pet (or for a human in the household) contact a veterinarian to find out if you should be concerned.

Onions and Garlic

Onions, garlic, and other members of the Allium plant family, can cause damage to red blood cells.  Pieces of raw onion, onion powder, or even cooked onion could result in anemia in both dogs and cats. While there is no known anecdote for these foods, your animal may require supportive care at your local veterinarian in order to prevent and/or correct any anemia that may occur.

For more veterinarian-approved information about the health and safety of your four-legged, furred, or feathered family member, please visit http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx or call us at 406-449-3539.

Please join us in welcoming Dr. Ashley Siders to our team. Dr. Siders is a recent graduate of Washington State University School of Veterinary Medicine. Prior to vet school she attended Montana State University where she received her undergraduate training. Dr. Siders and her husband are both Montana natives with a passion for the outdoors.